Mummer's Festival In Pernik

Form 25th to 27th of January the town of Pernik was sounded by bells, drums, folklore music and indefinite, deafening noise, coming from some strange people dressed in furs, women costumes, funny or really scary masks, and many enormous bells around their waists. The central walking alley was full of spectators, watching these diabolical creatures, jumping like mad and shaking their bodies in some ritual dances. The reason for this colourful fair was the 12th issue of Surva - the International Festival of the Masquerade games, which takes place in Pernik each year in January.The event gathers mummers from all over the country since 1966. It presents the masquerade traditions in the different folklore regions and keeps them alive. In the different parts of Bulgaria the mummers are called Kukeri, Survakari, Babugeri and Dzhamilari. This ancient custom, which dates back from the Thracian times, became even more popular after 1985, when the festival gained international-event status.
 And in 1995 the International Federation of Carnival Cities accepted the town of Pernik as its full member. Since then "Surva" is a crossing point of the mummers from all over the world and its most attractive feature is the two-day parade for ensembles from Bulgaria and abroad. The name of the festival "Surva", originates from "Survakane" one of the words that describes the winter masquerade games in Bulgaria.About 40 foreign groups from 13 countries like Macedonia, Ireland, Slovenia and even from India took part in the festival this year. The Bulgarian masquerade traditions and customs were presented by 90 ensembles from all over the country.On Saturday morning, January 26th, my friends and I went to Pernik, to visit the famous festival. We arrived in Pernik about 11 o'clock and when we got off the car we heard a thunderous ringing. The sound was coming from the big bells (chanove), which were hanged on the waists of the mummers.
We followed the sound and five minutes later we reached the central walking alley where hairy creatures with scary masks, dressed in goat furs were dancing and jumping around us. It was the first time I have been on such a festival and I was really impressed. The event was organized like a colourful procession through the central streets of the town. Then the folklore groups from the different parts of Bulgaria presented the rituals, tradition, songs, dances and costumes of their native region on the central square. Thus the festival turned into an original and unique presentation of the cultural variety in Bulgaria and abroad. The atmosphere of the carnival quickly grabbed me and I was swept away by its whirlwind. I was walking next to the ensembles, watching their mask, costumes, dances and steps.Probably some people will find that the mummers' games are non exquisite and even barbarian but they have to be rude and primary. Some of the costumes of the participants were really scary, while others were funny and grotesque.
There were men dressed like women, with young dogs, goats, pigs and fowls in their laps. Children and men in hairy raw furs were jumping and jingling with their bells like lunatics. They seemed to be possessed by some spirit, but the truth is that the domestic wine is a faithful companion of these masquerade traditions. There were folklore groups from Greece, Italy, Serbia and Ireland, but they looked more civilized and quiet compared to our wild and mad Kukeri and Survakari. Even though they were also very attractive.The roots of the masquerade games in Bulgaria date back from the ancient times. Most probably they are related to the maenad orgies during the times of the Dionysius fests. Later on the cultures on the Balkans messed and the customs transformed. Traditionally the mummers' games are performed in the very beginning of the New Year. This is a fertility ritual which aims to scary and sweep away forever the evil spirits and the weird sisters with the help of the special magic dances and the scary masks and bells, so that the crops for the next year will be rich.
 In the past only unmarried men were allowed to take part in the ritual, but nowadays married men, children and women can participate as well. Usually the masks are made by the participants themselves.Unfortunately I'm not an expert in the field of the masquerade games and I can't tell you what exactly they represented. But while I was at the festival I saw one really noisy and funny parade. The games were full of joy, conflicts, different costumes and persons, comical plays and improvisations. This national celebration was full of humor and satire and it has still kept its magical nature. The International Festival of the Masquerade games, Surva, will take place next year too and I'm sure it will host more ensembles and groups. So you have enough time to prepare your own mask. And next year you are welcome in Pernik to scare the evil spirits with other mummers and to have a real good time during the period of this unique celebration.